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Archive for January, 2007

How To Taste Beer

31 Jan
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Tasting beers may seem simple to many: buy beer and drink it. However, there are an increasing number of people who understand that craft beers can be just as complex as some wines. Because so many brewers are starting to put more thought and effort into brewing beer, we as beer drinkers should also think more about what we taste when we drink beer.Just like tasting wine, there are a few steps that one must go through to fully appreciate what one is consuming. There are many aspects to beer that makes it what it is – appearance, aroma, flavor, and body – and a beer enthusiast should be able to identify many traits of a beer within these components.

The following four steps aren’t that difficult to implement and can make your beer drinking experience a million times better, especially if you like to drink craft beers. On the contrary, these steps could quite possibly make you hate your favorite macrobrewery’s best offerings.

Observe
There are a few things to note when looking at a freshly poured beer. It is very important to pay attention to a beer’s color, clarity, and head retention. Knowing these characteristics of a beer can give you a pretty good foreshadowing of what the beer will be like when you actually taste it.

Disturb
This is obviously the easiest step but nonetheless important. By gently swirling the beer you can disturb it just enough to allow its aromas to be amplified for a moment. Before swirling your beer make sure you have your nose ready to do some analyzing.

Inhale
Many people don’t think of beer as aromatic (except once you’ve had a few too many and you begin sweating) but a beer’s smell is actually pretty important. When inhaling pay attention to whether the beer’s aroma is sweet, floral, spicy, or otherwise – these aromas often hint at what types of malts, hops, and yeasts were used and how it was brewed.

Taste
Obviously tasting the beer is the most fun and first impressions usually mean a lot, so do your best to get the most out of this step. It is important to figure out what is flavoring your beer so take notice to whether the beer is sweet, bitter, or balanced – do this by intentionally forcing the beer over your taste buds. Within a beer’s balance one can typically identify many sub-characteristics. Don’t forget to note what type of feel or texture the beer has. Along with a beer’s overall taste, body is probably one of the only things most people seem to care about, for example: America’s obsession with “light” beers. Much like a beer’s aromatic characteristics, the different parts to a beer’s taste can also tell you much about the beer’s ingredients and how the beer was made.

Hopefully these beer tasting methods will help the next time you drink a beer. I know that when I was first told about them around a year and a half ago I started noticing so much more about my favorite beers and especially beers I was trying for the first time. Once you have started using these four steps, you will eventually be able to break down each step even further, identifying more and more small details about the beer you are tasting. Good luck on your next beer tasting adventure – make sure you put your new knowledge to good use! Cheers!

Source: http://www.cureforwhatalesyou.com/

 
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3D DISPLAY SCREENS VIDEO GAMING NEEDS

27 Jan

Gemotion screenA University of Tokyo technology genius has created a ‘living’ display screen that offers dimensional depth to the videos played on it. Images of Gears of War chainsaw guns coming through the screen at me immediately come to mind and I now have no desire for an HDTV if this is possible any time soon. Yoichiro Kawaguchi’ Gemotion screen pushes and pulls the depth of the screen surface using 72 air cylinders behind a flexible 39 x 24 inch screen. The video projections get processed as image data that tells the cylinders how to bring the show to life. Obviously a three-ish foot by two foot screen with 72 points of depression doesn’t promise bringing Halo 3 normal mapping to life, but it would make countless RPG women racks look more appealing, and that’s a start.The Gemotion screen will be on display at the Tokyo National Art Center until February 4th. Hopefully we see some more digital developments taking these steps in the game industry soon. I think it would be hilarious if HDTVs went extinct in ten years because pixel accurate image depression display screens were developed. If they even pulled off a technology advancement that let you interact with the screen somehow, it would change the gaming industry forever. Picture playing Punch Out on the Wii Virtual Console, but you actually get to beat the shit out of Soda Popinski.

I can’t wait to see what our children’s crazy video games will be like. And congratulations to TheLastBoss reader uberbandit on becoming a father!

Source: http://www.thelastboss.com/

 
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Amazing Hand Painting Art

25 Jan


















 
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Smoking is good for you!

25 Jan

The image “http://www.photocritic.org/wp-content/uploads/2007/01/Picture-2.jpg” cannot be displayed, because it contains errors.Abstract photography is nothing new, and people constantly come up with new — or re-invent old — versions of photography techniques. One of the ones that is going like wild-fire (excuse the pun) around the interwebs at the moment is the art of photographing coloured smoke.The trend started with the highly talented Graham Jefferey, of Sensitive Light fame, whose phenomenal photographs went around the world via blogs,

We’ve managed to talk to Graham, and find out how he does his smoke photos…

Getting the smoke right

Before anything, Graham points out that there is no ‘right’ way to photograph smoke. His technique has developed over a long period of time, and Graham admits to learning and discovering new things every time he sets out to take the photos.

Smoke photo by Graham JeffereyThe two key secrets to smoke photography is inverting the image, and using gray smoke. Say what now? How does that work? Well, Graham explains: “It’s quite a simple technique, really. All you need to concentrate on when you are taking the photos themselves, is getting good images of the smoke. The colours are generated digitally at a later stage.”

To get the best possible smoke to work with, Graham uses simple incense sticks known as Joss sticks, which can be purchased from most Chinese supermarkets and in every Chinatown anywhere in the world. Alternatively, any reasonably large incense stick should do the trick.

Once you’ve got the smoke, the rest is all down to freezing the motion, and getting the lighting right. “In my opinion,” explains Graham, “the key technical factor is to adequately light the smoke so that it stands out from the background.”

Smoke photo by Graham JeffereyWhile smoke in itself can be an interesting subject matter, Graham points out that in his photos, the smoke itself isn’t the subject matter, it is merely the tool used to create unusual photographs: “I am not trying to create pictures of smoke; I am trying to create pictures by using smoke”. This approach means that you have full creative licence to do what you want to manipulate the smoke as much as necessary — the only thing you have to worry about is getting an impressive final result.

Lighting and exposure

The best way to get ‘cleanly’ lit smoke photos is to use a clean environment with controllable light. A studio would be ideal, but anywhere you can hang up a black background is perfectly useable. The most important thing when photographing smoke is getting enough light to freeze the motion of the smoke in mid-air. You can do this by using a lot of light (think direct sunlight falling through a window) or by using one or more flashes. When you’re photographing the smoke, you’ll want to make sure that no stray light hits the front of your camera lens (this will cause glare or solar-flare type effects), nor on your blackened background (because that will bring out definition in the background, which you don’t want either).

Smoke photo by Graham JeffereyWhen you are photographing, it is easiest to let the smoke rise on its own volition. Instead of trying to manipulate the incense stick, try wafting some motion into the air to disturb the even plume. Alternatively, you can try to create interesting shapes by making the plume turbulent: try introducing a ruler, an upturned spoon, or a sheet of paper into the plume to alter its shape and ‘feel’.

“I want clean lines and shapes”, Graham explains. To do this, he shoots with a lot of light at a small aperture (and thereby a deeper depth of field). “This is very much easier to do if the smoke is allowed to rise naturally.”

With the smaller aperture needed to capture the plumes of smoke properly, you obviously lose quite a bit of light. This is a problem, because in order to freeze the motion of the constantly-moving smoke, you need quite a fast shutter time. In practical terms, this means 1/250 or faster. Simultaneously, you can’t reduce the ISO value on your camera either, because the purile plumes of smokes would be ruined by significant amounts of noise. Needless to say, a coinciding need of low ISO, small apertures and high apertures means that you need a vast amount of light.

Smoke photo by Graham JeffereyPersonally, my best smoke photos were taken with a 2000W Bowen studio flash light with a humongous soft-box fitted on the front. I prefer this solution because the softbox gives even lighting, but it can be difficult to limit where the light goes, so the above-mentioned limitations of “no light on your background or camera lens” can get tricky. I find that if you put the softbox really close to the smoke, you can get excellent results. Having said that, my smoke photos aren’t nearly as good as Graham’s, and he uses a different approach: “For all practical purposes the light used to expose the image comes from one studio flash unit fitted with a snoot and placed at the side or behind the smoke. I realise that not everyone has one of these units, but an off camera flash gun fitted with or placed beside a baffle to protect the background from direct light works just as well.”

If you’re going to be working with external flashes anyway, you probably need to shoot in fully manual mode: Your internal light meter is unlikely to give you a lot of joy on this one. In addition, it’s absolutely vital to get it right. You’ll need to set your flash output and aperture so the brightest part of the smoke is almost completely white, but not quite. Overexposure means that you will lose detail, and the inverted image will have a lot of black in the smoke, which just looks unnatural. Under-exposure, on the other hand, will make it difficult to see the difference between the smoke and the background.

Once you’re taking photos, it’s worth keeping in mind that you need to keep the room well-ventilated. Not because the smoke will harm you (although it probably will, if you breathe in and get enough in your eyes, etc), but, as Graham puts it: “as the air fills up with the fog of dissipated smoke your pictures will be robbed of light, contrast and sharpness” — never mind your health, think of the photos!

Digital manipulation

Smoke photo by Graham JeffereyNow that you’ve captured the photos, it’s time to take it to your digital darkroom. Crop your image to a composition that works for you, and then use levels or curves to adjust the contrast of your photos. You’ll want to make sure that the background is completely black (hold the alt key while adjusting the black-point levels slider in Photoshop, it gives you a preview of what you’re actually doing), so it turns into a pure white when you invert the image.

Once you’re happy with the background, invert your image, and decide if you like the black or white background best — stick with whatever you prefer, but often the white backgrounded images have a lot higher impact. If you have stray smoke, dust, or details in the background you’re unhappy with, use a brush with the same colour as the background (i.e white or black) or clone tool to get rid of them.

To colourise the smoke, use the hue and saturation tool. You can apply the colour to the whole image in one go easily, because your pure white or black background will be unaffected by this tool (if it does make changes, then your background needs some work first). Alternatively, you can colorise part of the image, or use multiple colours, by making a selection of a part of the smoke, and use the ‘feather selection’ command to create a gradient. Using the Hue and Saturation tool now results in colorising parts of the smoke image only. Nifty, yes?

Some inspiration

Smoke photo by Graham JeffereyThe best place to go for some inspiration are Graham’s own images, available on his website. My personal favourites are these: -1- -2- -3-.

Apart from Graham, there are quite a few other people who have taken smoke photography under their wing. Myla Kent’s work (also inspired by Graham’s images) is worth a look, and there’s a Flickr group titled Artsmoke which takes the artform to a new level.

The only way you can get further, though, is to have a go yourself… What are you waiting for?

Article in co-operation with Graham Jefferey. All photographs © Graham Jefferey. To see the bigger versions, hit the Sensitive Light Smoke Gallery.

Source: photocritic.org

 
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Toshiba projector has detachable camera

20 Jan
Toshiba projector has detachable camera

Toshiba’s newest TDP-SC35U DLP (digital light processing) projector comes with a detachable document camera which enables users to display other items such as transparencies, photos, 2D and 3D objects, and even live demonstrations directly onto the projector screen. You can pick one up today from any authorized Toshiba distributor for $899. Havign a detachable document camera seems to be the trend where projectors are heading, as it allows for more flexibility during presentations, making it easier for everyone on the showfloor to see what is being demonstrated. For more specifications, read on after the jump.


• Brightness: 2,000 ANSI lumens
• Contrast ratio: 2,000:1
• Native resolution: SVGA (800 x 600)
• Inputs: Dual component, composite, S-Video, audio in/out, monitor output
• Weight: 8.6 pounds

Via: Ubergizmo.com

 
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